After straight chillin’ in Zadar, Croatia for several days, I made my way via bus to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina!

July 18th

Once I arrived in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, I simply started walking towards the center of the city. I had no expectations for this city or country, but my word, was I blown away instantly.

I’d stopped for lunch in the old town area at a little place called Tima Irma and was promptly served one of the biggest and greatest meals of all time! And, as a foreshadowing of the people in Bosnia, with a smile from the passionate and joyful owner, who was also the main chef.

Oh, and all of that only came to $13, which was perfect for two people (they have a portion for one person as well)! Absolutely divine meal and experience that was worth every penny!

With my belly near to popping, I walked around the area, crossing the biggest tourist attraction: Stari Most (literal translation: Old Bridge). Is it any wonder why it’s so popular?

It was starting to drizzle a bit, so I went to Cafe de Alma for a traditional Bosnian coffee. According to the barista there, here is the process for brewing and enjoying your Bosnian coffee to the fullest:

1. Boil the water, then pour the coffee grounds on top. Once the coffee grounds settle, boil again

2. Take 1-2 spoonfuls of ice cold water and pour on top to help the coffee ground sink to the bottom

3. Stir the top of the coffee until a bit creamy

4. Scoop the small layer of “cream” on the top to the bottom of your coffee cup

5. Pour the coffee on top of that “cream” layer in your coffee cup. Wait a minute or two for the ground to settle once again.

6. Enjoy your coffee for 30-60 minutes with friends or family like a true Bosnian! And don’t forget your Turkish delight!

After getting all hyped up on the strong Bosnian coffee (which you should never compare to Turkish coffee in front of a Bosnian!), I waltzed around the old town once again to specifically explore the Koski Mehmed Pasha Masque, another popular tourist attraction in Mostar.

Fun fact: about half of the population in Bosnia and Herzegovina is Muslim. 23% are Islamic and 32% are Muslim

While walking up through the minaret, I couldn’t help but feel claustrophobic and a bit dizzy, as it was a tight and steep staircase upwards. But, the view proved to be worth the squeeze.

Cost for climbing the minaret: 6 Euros. Worth it!

July 19th

I’d woken up early for a day tour of Mostar and the surrounding area with Mostar Travel Agency. I was picked up by a tour guide in his own personal car (only slightly sketchy— ha!). He took me 20 minutes out of the city, where we met a only a handful of other people and another tour guide, who was my guide’s brother.

First stop: an old and secret Yugoslavian bunker and underground air base

After wandering around there, we got back in our respective cars, then drove to the next destination, which wasn’t too far away, while jammin’ to some typical Bosnian music!

Second stop: breakfast along the river Buna.

Third stop: Blagaj Tekija

This monastery was built in 1520 by Dervish monks. It’s been so well-preserved, despite being nestled between a cliff face and the river Buna. To me, it’s magical architecture and nature together in perfect harmony.

Fourth stop: the historic urban site of Počitelj

This is a quaint, historic town that doubles as an open-air museum that was first mentioned back in 1444. So, yeah: quite old. But, so well preserved!

Fifth stop: Kravice Falls

Here, our small group indulged in some lunch, coffee, and a cool dip in the magical and shimmering waterfalls.

Sixth stop: Fortica

We witnessed an astounding view of Mostar from above. While admiring the view, we sat in the shade and enjoyed some fresh fruit while listening to personal accounts of the Bosnian war, of which Mostar took the brunt. Mostar and its people had suffered greatly during the war and there is still some hostility between the Muslims and Christians in the city.

Seventh stop: short walking tour of shelled buildings

Our guides took us to a few buildings that accurately depicted how the city was affected— and continues to be— by the Bosnian war. It was abundantly clear throughout this tour, but more so at this point, that the people of Mostar suffered during the war in the 90’s, still suffer today, but are an optimistic people. They still wear smiles on their faces and persevere through the hardship to a brighter future.

And that was when I fell in love with Mostar as a city, Bosnia and Herzegovina as a country, and the Bosnians as people.

Bosnia and Herzegovina was my favorite country during my Eastern Europe backpacking trip.

Delicious food. Happy, joyful, healing, and persevering people. Rich culture. Quiet and generally untouched. A brutal past, but the promise of a bright future.

What is not to love?

Would you ever visit Bosnia and Herzegovina?

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